Remove the power supply board from the TV. Take high-resolution photos of the board from multiple angles. Create a diagram or spreadsheet listing every capacitor: position, value (µF), voltage rating, and physical size. This documentation is critical - you'll be removing 20-25 capacitors and need to know exactly what goes where. Some technicians use a label maker to mark each capacitor position on the board.

This is the most time-consuming step. Systematically remove every electrolytic capacitor on the board. A desoldering gun makes this much faster than a desoldering pump. Work in sections (primary side, then secondary side) to stay organized. Keep the old capacitors in order so you can reference their values if needed. Typical values: 1000µF 16V, 470µF 25V, 220µF 35V, 100µF 50V, etc.

Clean all the capacitor pads with solder wick and flux. The holes should be clear and the pads shiny. This is important - if the holes are clogged, the new capacitors won't fit properly. Inspect the board for any other damage (burnt resistors, cracked solder joints). Fix any issues you find while the board is out.

Install the new 105°C low-ESR capacitors one by one, double-checking each value and polarity. Use your documentation and photos to ensure correct placement. The stripe on the capacitor must align with the shaded area on the PCB silkscreen. Solder each capacitor and trim the leads. This step takes 1-2 hours - don't rush. A single reversed capacitor can destroy the power supply when powered on.

Before putting the board back in the TV, test it on the bench if possible. Connect the AC input and measure all voltage rails: 12V, 5V, 3.3V, etc. All should be within ±5% of nominal. Check for AC ripple with an oscilloscope - should be under 50mV peak-to-peak. If everything checks out, reinstall the board in the TV. Power on and let it run for 2-3 hours to ensure stability.